Once I had selected the three pieces to explore, it was time to find out more about the chosen textiles through observation and further research. I have decided to do the three chosen and the textile I found in my home so I can have a better understanding. I will discuss the substance and story of each textile, one by one.
I will start with the Afwillite textile by S.M.Slade. This textile is made from spun rayon. Rayon is a fibre made up of regenerated cellulose, typically from eucalyptus trees. It was manufactured by British Celanese Limited in 1951 using many synthetic chemicals. This should be kept in mind when caring for the fabric. It should be hand washed and hung dry to protect the fibres. The method used in its production is done one a spinning wheel, which consists of spinning short lengths of rayon filaments into a continuous strand. So the textile is machine made, spun rayon with screen-print added to create the dress fabric. The textile is made in Great Britain, however, this particular textile isn’t the final piece. The final piece is a dress that I cannot find unfortunately. The fibres of this textile originated in France where the first production began. It has since been used worldwide.
There isn’t many, if any visual indications on S.M.Slade’s “Afwillite 8.45” as its not the final product. However, it looks fairly durable which you would expect from a dress fabric. The fabrics I have chosen are from the Post-War textiles archive, so all items have a story to tell. “Aided by post-war confidence and growth, a new wave of designs was produced, influenced by art and design from around the world.” (V&A website) New opportunities were provided by the Festival of Britain in 1951. One design type stood out from the rest, which consisted of magnified representations of atomic structures to create patterns. Substances including boric acid, aluminium hydroxide and afwillite were used to create patterns such as Slade’s “Afwillite 8.45”
The textile by Pablo Picasso is also made from screen-printed rayon. It was manufactured in Florida by Fuller Fabrics in 1956. The process of making the textile is the same as the previous, machine made spun rayon with screen-print finish. In 1953, Fuller Fabrics approached Picasso to invite him to try his hand at textile design. These designs would eventually go on to create dress’s and furnishings.
“Frequency” is a textile made from cotton. Cotton is mostly made up of cellulose fibre which gives it the soft and fluffy feel. The fibres get spun into threads that are then woven into fabric. It was manufactured for Heals Fabric in 1969. This kind of fabric can be cared for by washing in cold water either by hand or in a machine and preferably air dried. This piece was made on a spinning wheel machine with a screen print on the fabric to produce the design. It was made in Great Britain in 1969, designed by Barbara Brown and produced by Heal Fabrics. Cotton itself was first cultivated as a fabric in Pakistan, 2500BC and has now been used all around the world for so many years. In the late 1960s a new generation of designers replaced the delicate look with a larger scale more bolder designs such as Barbara Brown.
Traceability within a textile is important because it provides better control. From the product to the raw product, it helps to identify every process that goes into making a fabric and where its been.
The tatting piece found in my home was made from an old cotton bedsheet and polyester blends. There is no manufacturers label because the bedsheet was cut up and used for this new textile piece. However, I know that the bedsheet would have been woven on an industrial loom. Once the woven fabric is complete, it would have been bleached, dyed, rolled and finished with a sewn hem. The artist then used the old worn bedsheet and created a piece of fabric using the tatting technique. It is around 100 years old now so it is almost impossible to find out any extra information about this piece. It is well worn with a couple holes and very light patina can be seen but if you looked at it for the first time, I don’t think you could tell it was 100 years old as its been well looked after.
Post-War Textiles, Victoria & Albert Museum. At: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/post-war-textiles [accessed 15/09/22]